This collection of McInerney's wine columns for House and Garden show why he is one of the better wine writers at work today. He's as likely to compare a wine to a movie or a song as he is to compare it some fruit no one has ever tasted. He doesn't try to be encyclopedic, and you'll never read about how many hundreds of wines he tried at one sitting. Instead, you get to read someone who loves wine and loves metaphor. It's a pretty enjoyable combination. ( )