The Happy Isles of Oceania: Paddling the Pacific

Having lived in the Pacific, I found Paul Theroux's impressions humorously accurate. He throws away all of the romantic myths about the islands. At times I found his writings somewhat mean-spirited and condescending, but overall "The Happy Isles of Oceania" was an entertaining read. "The Sex Lives of Cannibals" would be a good accompanient. ( )

When I first read the description of The Happy Isles of Oceania I was impressed with the claim that theauthor had "paddled the Pacific". I thought he'd paddled across the ocean, Kon Tiki style. I was wrong. The subtext "Paddling the Pacific" refers to Mr. Theroux island hopping within groups of islands in his collapsible kayak. The book begins on a sad note - Mr. Theroux has parted with his wife and is expecting to hear back the results of a biopsy which could very well come back with news of cancer. The author heads to New Zealand and Australia ("Meganesia") on the pretext of a book tour and thus begins his delightful journey through the islands of the Pacific.

At 526 pages, this travelogue has the usual Theroux touches - his relentless pursuit of places where no one else goes, discomfiting generalizations, references to great books about the places he's visiting and encounters with some memorable characters. For fans of Mr. Theroux' other travel writings, this one does not disappoint. Recommended. writings, this one does not disappoint. Recommended. ( )

I really like Theroux's style and his view of culture(s). This book was interesting and I'm fascinated by the region, but it just went a bit too long. Not enough dramatic differences between island nations to keep me genuinely hooked. ( )

Free form touring ( )

This book is well researched and intimate, providing vivid descriptions of the many islands Theroux visited.

What Theroux captures so well is the marginal nature of the islanders, their sometimes pointless existence, and their inability to rise above their circumstances. He is particularly hard on the French colonial influence, especially in his chapters on Tahiti and the Marquesas. The Marquesas is where Melville based his novel Typee, and is also where Gaugin is buried (what a bastard he was!).

The islands are very difficult to reach, having steep cliffs down to the sea and no good harbors. At one time the Marquesas supported an estimated population of 80,000 people but it is now down to about 7,000. As with Easter Island, and as with the Mayan empire, The Marquesas is rich in archeological remains which testify to a complex but largely forgotten culture. Ecological disaster seems to be at the root of the de-population. Stone temples covered in thick vines can be found in inpenetrable jungle hills and valleys. Many of these sites have never been excavated, but most have been defaced by overzealous 19th century missionaries intent on whacking off offending penises and such. Most of the native islanders have never visited any of the sites, even the ones in their own backyards, and they have no particular interest in their history - such is the dissapating effect of missionaries and colonialization.

Here is what Theroux has to say at the end of his stay on the Marquesas:
“There is no cannibalism in the Marquesas anymore - none of the traditional kind. But there is the brutality of French colonialism…. The French praise and romanticize the Marquesas, but in the 1960s they had planned to test nuclear devices on the northern Marquesan island of Eiao, until there was such an outcry they changed their plans and decided to destroy Moruroa instead. It is said that the French are holding Polynesia together, but really it is so expensive to maintain that they do everything as cheaply as possible - and it is self-serving, too. Better to boost domestic French industries by exporting bottled water from France than investing in a fresh water supply for each island [there is an abundance of fresh water in the Marquesas]. That is what colonialism is all about… The French have left nothing enduring in the islands except a tradition of hypocrisy and their various fantasies off history and high levels of radioactivity..

“When France has succeeded in destroying a few more atolls, when they have managed to make the islands glow with so much radioactivity that night is turned into day, when they have sold the rest of the fishing rights and depleted it of fish.., when it has all been thoroughly plundered, the French will plan a great ceremony and grandly offer these unemployed and deracinated citizens in T-shirts and flip-flops their independence. In the destruction of the islands, the French imperial intention, its mission civilisatrice - civilizing mission - will be complete.” ( )