Laura Werlin's
The New American Cheese isn't just a beautiful and informative book, it's an important resource that, by profiling more than 50 cheese makers in all parts of the U.S., formally welcomes a whole new era of artisanal cheese production in America. More varieties of high-quality, locally made cheeses are available to more people in more parts of the country than at any other time in U.S. history--and, fortunately, the situation is only going to get better. Werlin divides her book into two parts, the basics and the specifics. "All About Cheese" takes the reader through the evolution of cheese making in America: how cheese is made; the health factors; how to taste, buy, and store cheese; how to serve cheese alone and with wine; and how to cook with cheese. Then she gets specific. "Recipes and Profiles" glides between a deep appreciation of the people producing these new cheeses, the cheeses themselves, and the ways these cheeses can be best appreciated as starters and appetizers, in pizzas, pastas, and risottos, and as part of main courses, side dishes, and dessert. The recipe section entitled "Cheese Classics" offers, of course, an irresistible Three Cheese Macaroni and Cheese. There are 80 recipes total, with such standouts as Peppered Goat Cheese Crackers, Polenta with Teleme, Asiago, and Truffle Oil, Cheese Enchiladas with Lime-Tomatillo Sauce, Herbed Sugar Snap Peas with Goat Cheese, and Ricotta-Brioche Bread Pudding. Best of all, Werlin's sprightly, informed prose is underscored by Martin Jacobs's equally delightful photos.
--Schuyler Ingle
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