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In Defense of Food: An Eater's Manifesto by Michael Pollan
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In Defense of Food: An Eater's Manifesto

by Michael Pollan

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Penguin Press HC, The (2008), Hardcover, 256 pages

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Eat food, not so much, mostly plants. This and a number of great ideas for eating and enjoying food. It also provides insight into the American (North) way of life and helps educate the reader about the provenance of food. If you are interested in what you eat this is a great start. ( )
  rightantler | Jan 6, 2010 |
Pollan gives good, sound and often logical advice on how to reinsert food (think non-processed, fresh stuff) into our diets. His main theme is "eat food. Not too much. mostly plants."Some of my favorite 'rules' he developed are: don't eat anything your great-grandmother wouldn't recognize, don't eat food that doesn't rot (watch out french fries!), and only eat at the table (a desk does not count). A good positive reinforcement of those food principles everyone should be following to escape the 'western diet' and all it's accompanying health problems.**I'm giving this book 4 stars because you can still remember what you read at the beginning of the book once you get to the end (it's pretty short)! Unlike his other works which are basically just doorstops. ( )
  mmillet | Dec 14, 2009 |
People that read The Omnivore's Dilemma are going to rush out and buy this before opening to find ... a slightly rancid, re-cooked smell. Kind of a mess really for such an experienced writer. Who, in heaven's name, does he think is reading this? People a lot dumber than those that read OD, apparently.

He goes on long jags citing huge percentage of Americans that are obese, that are consuming more of x, y or z. And the people most likely to read this, including me, are thinking: "I'm not fat. I don't eat stuff like that. They don't resemble my friends or cohorts. Who precisely are we talking about? Would hints about a particular region or class help out?" Does anyone now reading this need to be told to avoid eating Twinkies and nondairy creamer? Pollan thinks so! When he launches into Wonder Bread, you start to wonder if he's back in a time warp, say circa 1970. He may next have disclosed shocking news about Pringles, fast food, TV dinners, and Cheez Whiz, but I admit I didn't read the whole book. I'm pretty sure, though, that he never explained where transfats are lurking.

He does mention the problems of aborigines and Native Americans, their sudden shift in diet, high rates of diabetes ... and how an experiment in back to nature reversed many of their problems s ...but once again, how many of those folks are reading this book? The big appeal of OD was that the middle-class, picky eater reader could vicariously accompany the author on his quest and in his cooking.

OK, I didn't finish it, but I read almost the whole thing, including the final two chapters and I didn't learn much after the first few chapters. For example, apparently animal fat (for cooking, in meat and in dairy products) isn't as bad as was once thought. Yet Americans drastically reduced consumption of it in the past few decades. Maybe cooking with corn oil is worse, Or maybe not. Nevernonetheless, does he mean it doesn't make much sense to be drinking soy milk instead of cow's milk? Or 2 percent cow's milk instead of the whole milk? What kind of oil should one be cooking with? Only olive oil? You do not get answers to such questions. Butter can be substituted for margarine with a clear conscience? Not that I've ever bought the stuff but ...

Of course there are interesting parts. Such as: how the wholesale shift to grains was relatively recent in human existence. And how we're very suddenly consuming a great deal of soy products (so tofu? and tempeh and what have you?) and soy ingredients ... but what should you do about that or how much is too much? Well, he doesn't get into that.

Late in the game he refers approvingly to "the ancient Asian practice of fermenting soy and eating soy in the form of curds" (but isn't too much soy bad?). My mind wandered off ... Indians don't eat tofu, or any soy products that I can think of.. To the extent that Thais, Malaysians or Indonesians do, they've picked it up fairly recently from Chinese immigrants. Even in Japan, the word for tofu is obviously Chinese.Shouldn't he know how it fits into Chinese cooking?

I just opened the book, near the end, where we get back to his ahem sage advice about not eating too much and to mostly eat plants (so soybeans are ok?). And he goes into a chapter re "don't eat what your grandmother or great-grandmother wouldn't recognize." Starting with some kind of tube yogurt.

Now altogether readers are griping, "But I don't eat that crap!" After all, it's so easy to make yogurt at home. (Except, wait a minute, are we or are we not supposed to be consuming whole fat/2 percent and/or skim milk?) Only one of my grandmas is likely to have recognized yogurt or any soy foods. Neither would have eaten yogurt. Definitely none of the great-grandparents. So I shouldn't? Next item on the shopping list he mentions is something like a sugary "breakfast bar." Are warnings about such processed food really news for his readers?

The warning about great/grandparents is also stupid because today in markets there are so many veggies and fruits and spices and grains and noodles and such that are wonderful, even better foods than our grandmothers regularly consumed. How many of them had refrigerators their whole lives?

Seems especially dumb when so many, maybe the majority, of readers, like Pollan himself, have immigrant grandparents. When it gets to great-grandparents, that probably is a majority of Americans. He himself mentions how quickly the diet changed--from his Eastern European grandmother to his mother to his present household. then he seems to forget all about it. In my case, cabbage and potatoes doesn't sound like an especially healthy or appealing diet. Corned beef was a real luxury, Grandma said. And an orange only for Xmas? I doubt her family ever had that.

Thinking of great-grandmothers and foods I frequently eat is a subtraction exercise: out rambutans, mangos, probably grapefruit and pineapples, definitely guava, pita bread, chick peas, eggplants, bulgar, everything in fatoosh, olives, various mushrooms and seeds. Even manaw, the spherical limes I use in tea everyday. Tonight I was eating some humble 50 cents phat thai, surely fried in palm oil (supposedly bad for the heart, but you won't learn from this book). Maybe the great-grandmothers would recognize the noodles as food, but the tofu? chillis? bean sprouts? Definitely not bamboo shoots or little greens from banana plants.

When you start thinking about why people emigrated ... look for ideas of the narrow diet and nutrition related illnesses in the developing world.

I also have my doubts about some of the trad'l cuisines he applauds in passing. Take the Japanese. I've lived in Japan. Fish sounds fine, tho I don't know about such huge amounts of raw fish. But the trad'l way of consuming vegetables is by pickling them. Having gotten refrigerators rather late, and having very small cooking facilities, whatever ... Japanese still eat a lot of pickled and salted stuff. Is that so healthy? Ditto frying (not just stir frying) so much fish and chicken. Not to mention the very decided preference for white rice (to the extent brown rice is appearing, probably gaijin are to blame).

It's not a culture that you associate with leafy greens (that would be Vietnamese) or year-round fresh fruit. When Japanese started getting microwaves, they had never had convection ovens. Do we really want to throw out the lore through the ages of oven cooking?

Do I sound too picky? Well, I'm not a foodie, I don't know much about food, I don't really cook. Yet I know that, any food critic would, and I want to read someone that knows more than me, an authority.

But the biggest problem is the lack of focus. The earlier book looked at the ethical dimensions of our food choices, This one is supposedly built around how to make healthy choices, I think, but he got sidetracked by an arguably more interesting idea: how a lot of nutrition advice of recent decades is faulty, misguided. or discredited. The he got sidetracked by food habits and evolution and so-called civilization. imho ( )
  Periodista | Nov 20, 2009 |
Michael Pollan takes a fresh look at the American diet and pronounces it unfit for human consumption. The food he defends is food our grandparents would recognize--fresh (or frozen), grown close to home, 5-items or less on the nutritional label, ingredients you can pronounce. Avoid corn 'products' such as corn oil and high-fructose corn syrup, additives, artificial flavorings and other chemical additives. Words of wisdom we have all heard before, but this time with a resounding voice. Well done. I made an impression on me that no 'diet' book has ever done before. He does an effective job of getting across the point that eating right is essential to good health and we shouldn't be misled by food marketing ploys of 'low-fat', 'low calorie' and 'enriched'. ( )
  sharlene_w | Nov 5, 2009 |
Interesting and instructive. I object to the way he used the term "reductionist science".
There's good science and bad science; having a narrow focus might lead to irrelevance,
but is not a sin in itself. ( )
  cgodsil | Oct 17, 2009 |
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For Ann and Gerry,
With gratitude for your loyal friendship
and inspired editing
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Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants.
Quotations
…the "what to eat" question is somewhat more complicated for us than it is for, say, cows. Yet for most of human history, humans have navigated the question without expert advice. To guide us we had, instead, Culture, which, at least when it comes to food, is really just a fancy word for your mother.
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Michael Pollan

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Amazon.com Amazon.com Review (ISBN 0143114964, Paperback)

Amazon Significant Seven, January 2008: Food is the one thing that Americans hate to love and, as it turns out, love to hate. What we want to eat has been ousted by the notion of what we should eat, and it's at this nexus of hunger and hang-up that Michael Pollan poses his most salient question: where is the food in our food? What follows in In Defense of Food is a series of wonderfully clear and thoughtful answers that help us omnivores navigate the nutritional minefield that's come to typify our food culture. Many processed foods vie for a spot in our grocery baskets, claiming to lower cholesterol, weight, glucose levels, you name it. Yet Pollan shows that these convenient "healthy" alternatives to whole foods are appallingly inconvenient: our health has a nation has only deteriorated since we started exiling carbs, fats--even fruits--from our daily meals. His razor-sharp analysis of the American diet (as well as its architects and its detractors) offers an inspiring glimpse of what it would be like if we could (a la Humpty Dumpty) put our food back together again and reconsider what it means to eat well. In a season filled with rallying cries to lose weight and be healthy, Pollan's call to action—"Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants."--is a program I actually want to follow. --Anne Bartholomew

(retrieved from Amazon Tue, 05 Jan 2010 15:22:48 -0500)

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