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Dark Star Safari: Overland from Cairo to Capetown by Paul Theroux
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Dark Star Safari: Overland from Cairo to Capetown

by Paul Theroux

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My first Theroux travelogue was Ghost Train to the Eastern Star, a journey in which the venerable travel writer retraced a trip he took thirty five years ago. In Dark Star Safari Mr. Theroux does something similar - he goes on a trip from Cairo to Cape Town, covering the landmass of that great and wondrous continent, a place that seems to cling hungrily to its moniker of the dark continent.

Theroux eschews air travel, as anyone whose read any of his travel books will know well. Mr. Theroux Africa is on a different planet, on a Dark Star as the author keeps reminding us. He compares the Africa of 2001 with the Africa he lived in forty years ago when he taught at a small school in Malawi and then at the Makerere University in Uganda, and most everywhere he sees an Africa "on the wane". He encounters pretentious aid workers driving around in expensive Land Rovers, self righteous missionaries, indifferent bureaucracy and superstitious politicians. He also meets some old friends and makes a few new ones. I found the story of an almost deaf Naguib Mahfouz holding court a Cairo hotel delightful.

There is much to recommend and very little to distract. If you are familiar with Paul Theroux' other work you already know his writing is not exactly full of hope but it is excellent. Highly recommended. ( )
  ubaidd | Oct 20, 2009 |
I read this book in a class about vocation. A lot of questions came up about how much we could trust his account. He makes some pretty harsh judgments on people, especially relief workers. All the same, this is worth the hefty page count. It is not tedious to read, I find, because Theroux keeps you wanting to know how things end out and where he ends up. Very entertaining! ( )
  lunasilentio | Aug 8, 2009 |
Depressing insight into modern Africa. Interesting travel writing that makes me eager to leave everything behind and strike out, too. Mr. Theroux is not favorably disposed to Christians (for their hypocrisy) and is extremely critical of African aid and charitable organizations. ( )
  ORFisHome | Jul 13, 2009 |
One of Theroux's best. A marvellous report of his travels from Cairo to Capetown. Some shocking descriptions of the results our 'aid' to Africa has. ( )
  WashandjeNL | May 9, 2009 |
Theroux is an amazing travel writer - he is genuine. When he is irritated or finds something to be disappointed about he tells us, but it doesn't seem contrived or as though he is being deliberately ironic or negative (looking at you Bill Bryson). When he is enthusiastic about something, he is not gushing, but you appreciate what he is sharing.

Many readers have not liked this book because Theroux is obviously disappointed with Africa. Having lived in a third world country myself, I felt in so many places that I could relate to his disappointments, his realistic dry-eyed assessment of the people and the situations around him. Fact is, much of what he comes across is total crap, and much of it is due to the people who continue to live in a dire situation without helping themselves. While that is not a particularly PC or romantic view, Theroux tells it as he sees it; therefore when he praises something you feel that is equally as genuine.

This book worked for me - the romance of the travel makes me want to jump on a train and take off for an adventure; but the description of Africa makes me realise that is not where I would want to be heading. ( )
  ForrestFamily | Apr 21, 2009 |
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Book description
Al het nieuws over Afrika, stelde Paul Theroux vast, is tegenwoordig slecht nieuws. Het enige dat we over de Afrikaanse landen horen, heeft te maken met hongersnood, massamoorden en natuurrampen Theroux had betere herinneringen aan het Afrikaanse continent. Hij dacht aan de vele gevaren, de liefelijkheid, de humor, de schoonheid van de natuur, en besloot per trein een reis te maken door het 'groenste deel van de wereld', waar hij veertig jaar geleden met veel plezier gewoond, gewerkt en rondgetrokken had. Hij was ervan overtuigd dat zijn nieuwe reis weer even plezierig zou worden. Maar Theroux vergiste zich. Hij werd beroofd, beschoten en beschimpt. De wegen waren een verschrikking, de treinen bevonden zich in een vreselijke slechte toestand en een infrastructuur bestond nauwelijks. Afrika leek in veertig jaar alleen maar bergafwaarts gegaan. De mensen waren hongeriger, armer, slechter opgeleid, pessimistischer en corrupter, en de politici onderscheidden zich niet langer van medicijnmannen. Theroux werd ziek en kon vaak niet verder reizen. Toch verveelde hij zich geen moment. Integendeel: zijn verblijf in Afrika werd een openbaring. De reis van Cairo naar Kaapstad bleek een nieuw reisboek dubbel en dwars waard te zijn.

Amazon.com Product Description (ISBN 0618446877, Paperback)

In Dark Star Safari the wittily observant and endearingly irascible Paul Theroux takes readers the length of Africa by rattletrap bus, dugout canoe, cattle truck, armed convoy, ferry, and train. In the course of his epic and enlightening journey, he endures danger, delay, and dismaying circumstances. Gauging the state of affairs, he talks to Africans, aid workers, missionaries, and tourists. What results is an insightful meditation on the history, politics, and beauty of Africa and its people, and "a vivid portrayal of the secret sweetness, the hidden vitality, and the long-patient hope that lies just beneath the surface" (Rocky Mountain News). In a new postscript, Theroux recounts the dramatic events of a return to Africa to visit Zimbabwe.

(retrieved from Amazon Fri, 24 Apr 2009 07:58:24 -0400)

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