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Pillars of Hercules by Paul Theroux
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Pillars of Hercules

by Paul Theroux

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The Pillars of Hercules is a "Grand Tour of the Mediterranean", an encounter with the most storied sea on the planet. Paul Theroux is well up to the task of bringing a his unique brand of spartan travel to a journey that has been written about since Homer's Odyssey.

Reading the travelogues of Paul Theroux is not just an encounter with exotic geography and customs, it is also an intensely literary experience. Mr. Theroux is a scholar, a linguist and in his uniquely curmodgeonly manner a keen observer of men. He is funny and mindful of his sour temper as he pokes fun at his own style. He makes generalizations as he sneers at the "snap judgments and obnoxious opinions" expressed by Evelyn Waugh in Labels (1930), an account of that writer's cruise around the Mediterranean. I found his description of an encounter with another traveler hilarious -

"In life, it is inevitable that you meet someone just like yourself. What a shock that your double is not very nice, and seems selfish and judgmental and frivolous and illogical."

The book begins on a fiesty note - at the Rock of Gibraltar, one of the "Pillars of Hercules" where the author clearly prefers the company of apes to 'tourists'. Tourists he thinks are the worst kinds of humans but he promises early on not to talk about them. Mr. Theroux of course is not a tourist, he is a traveler. The interesting fact is that I agree with his characterization, at least of himself. I found the overall tone less vitriolic than the one employed in Ghost Train to the Eastern Star and Dark Star Safari. There are three cities the author showers considerable praise on - Dubrovnik, Jerusalem and Venice. He is kinder to the Italians but ruthless in his criticism of the Greeks. He relates his frustrating experience with Israel's security and then talks about his meeting with American expat Paul Bowles that borders on the surreal. I've encountered Istanbul twice in Mr. Theroux' works - once in Ghost Train to the Eastern Star and once in Pillars of Hercules - and I can't wait to go visit that grand city. There are encounters with other writers and other, more colorful characters, each contributing to a delightfully readable account.

Mr. Theroux says -
"But then a travel book is a very strange thing, there are few good excuses for writing one--all of them personal..The fairest way of judging travel books is by their truth and their wit"

If he were to judge his work by his own standards, I would say Mr. Theroux would be very proud. Highly recommended. ( )
  ubaidd | Dec 1, 2009 |
Well-written and funny. ( )
  charlie68 | Jul 10, 2009 |
Excellent travel book, though not quite in the upper echelon. Excellent observations and writing, but there was still a remoteness that interfered with real knowledge. Do have to admire the author's courage -- he definitely traveled to get the story, even when it was difficult if not dangerous. I think I would have also preferred more of an historical context. ( )
  NellieMc | Jun 27, 2009 |
Take a trip with Paul Theroux as he travels around the Mediterranean from Gibraltar to Tangier (the long way). ( )
  zenosbooks | Feb 24, 2009 |
I read this book because I had just returned from the areas about which he writes and wanted to read someone else's views of the region. I found that the things he liked best, the people, were my favorites, too. I was happily surprised that we'd met some of the same people, most memorably the guys in the old souk in Aleppo, Syria: Ala'a Aldin and Mohammed, especially, are impossible to forget, with their wicked senses of humor and big hearts. This book was a great way for me to remember a great trip. ( )
  k4115 | Nov 28, 2008 |
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People here in Western civilization say that tourists are no different from apes, but on the Rock of Gibraltar, one of the Pillars of Hercules, I saw both tourists and apes together, and I learned to tell them apart.
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Amazon.com (ISBN 0140245332, Paperback)

Paul Theroux has developed one of travel writing's most identifiable styles: always the foreigner, always a bit apart, slightly irascible, but perfectly observant. At last he has ventured to one of the most traveled places on earth, and returned with his most exhilarating, revealing, and eloquent travel book. In this modern version of the Grand Tour, Theroux sets off from Gibraltar, one of the fabled Pillars of Hercules, on a glorious journey around the shores of the Mediterranean.

(retrieved from Amazon Fri, 24 Apr 2009 07:58:17 -0400)

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