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Eleven Minutes Late: A Train Journey to the Soul of Britain

by Matthew Engel

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1707159,329 (3.59)3
A funny and affecting portrait of Britain's love hate relationship with the railway with a new chapter for this paperback edition Britain gave railways to the world, yet its own network is the dearest (definitely) and the worst (probably) in Western Europe. Trains are deeply embedded in the national psyche and folklore - yet it is considered uncool to care about them. For Matthew Engel the railway system is the ultimate expression of Britishness. It represents all the nation's ingenuity, incompetence, nostalgia, corruption, humour, capacity for suffering and even sexual repression. To uncover its mysteries, Engel has travelled the system from Penzance to Thurso, exploring its history and talking to people from politicians to platform staff. Along the way Engel ('half-John Betjeman, half-Victor Meldrew') finds the most charmingly bizarre train in Britain, the most beautiful branch line, the rudest railwayman, and - after a quest lasting decades - an Individual Pot of Strawberry Jam. Eleven Minutes Late is both a polemic and a paean, and it is also very funny.… (more)
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» See also 3 mentions

Showing 1-5 of 7 (next | show all)
shelved at: 11 : Rail transport
  PeterKent2015 | Feb 14, 2016 |
shelved at: 11 : Rail transport
  mwbooks | Jan 22, 2016 |
As withering a critique of Britain's mismanagement of the railway system as you could wish for, best summed up by a junior civil servant as "its completely fucked. The biggest cock up of all time". Although, as Engel himself notes, someone writing a book about British energy policy might have another view. But this is not the book of a nostalgist for the whimsy of steam trains and uneconomic branch lines. Anything but. Engel is as scathing of, if amused by, the ineffeciencies of the 19th century as he is angered of those of today. Engel is a train fan yes, but he has little time for meandering routes kept alive by bye election fears.

A history to railways is interspersed with a gossipy travelogue of a 2 week trip through the UK, armed with a Rover ticket giving him an unlimited ticket to ride. This is often funny, if slightly pooterish. And elegiac of certain branch lines, stations and landscapes you and I are never likely to see.

Well worth reading ( )
2 vote Opinionated | Apr 19, 2015 |
A fascinating paean to Britain's railway network. Engel, better known to me from his former incarnation as the editor of Wisden, spent a fortnight doing nothing but travelling around the British railway network.
Armed with a two-week rover ticket which entitled him to travel by any train (first or standard class) on the whole network, he began by striving to travel as quickly as possible form one end to the other, and then made his return journey at a more leisurely pace, travelling as widely as possible Dundee, whence he changed for Inverness and then ultimately Thurso.
While describing his journey he throws in all sorts of fascinating detail about the history of the development of the network, and successive governments' failure (from 1830 on through to today) to understand the nature, purpose and potential of the rail network.
He gives an enthralling (though also infuriating) description of the various stages of nationalisation, privatisation and then partial re-nationalisation of the network, and a detailed idssection of Dr Beeching's infamous evisceration of the network in the 1960s.
He travels along some amazing routes and meets some marvellous people on the way. However, equally poignantly, he travels ofn some ghastly trains and meets some abysmal characters including the buffet steward, Umerji, whose opening attempt at customer service is, "What're you waiting for, you c**t?"
I confess to having certain anorakish tendencies with regard to trains so I was completely taken with this book.. However, it does not fall into the all-too-inviting trap of a rose-tinted spectacles view of the current or past systems. Realistic, lucid and entertaining! ( )
2 vote Eyejaybee | Apr 21, 2012 |
What a great book! Even more amazingly, it was an automatic LT RECOMMENDATION that popped up into my listing one day. Even the cover was tempting – nostalgia from my own boyhood, it showed what could have been our local hub-station from the old British Railways of my youth. I ordered it immediately, and – despite having a great pile of To be Reads – read it immediately too.

It tells the story of British Rail, from its invention by Stephenson, on that strange gauge that was set by the width of the Roman chariot ruts, still to be seen in places like Pompeii and Colchester (http://www.straightdope.com/columns/read/2538/was-standard-railroad-gauge-48-determined-by-roman-chariot-ruts), to its apparent current destruction down the most despicable and expensive-per-mile service in the world in current times, where a train has to be more than ten minutes late to be recorded as such. (Hence the title).. Shades of Amtrak!

Whilst visiting my native country recently we used the railway – London Docklands and Southern - quite unaware that they were now part of a denationalized service (”privatized’ in Politico-speak) into some 25 or 30 capitalistic concerns, no longer a nation-wide service but owned and operated, after a fashion, by previous bus companies or Virgin Airlines!

Engel is a train aficionado, as my wife and I are and we still use Amtrak, with enjoyment and even anticipation … not always realized of course, regretfully. The book tells a story that is familiar – a national treasure of an integrated transportation system that is slowly degraded by political manipulation into an embarrassment and disgrace.

The author notes that even the most celebrated success of recent railway-lore in Great Britain – the ‘channel tunnel express service from London to Paris was reluctantly funded, developed and completed 13 years later than the French connection – and some 205 years after it was first proposed. And then, only launched on a need for a political ‘sound bite’ for Margaret Thatcher, the “Iron Lady” of privatization in her meeting with French President Mitterrand. He notes it was just as well nobody told ”HER” – a noted railways hater - that it could have been a road tunnel instead!

As an example of just how bad service to its customers can get he cites a conversation on a Virgin train with a bar-attendant called Umerji. After browsing the meager offerings of the on-board “shop” offered instead of a restaurant car (no Pullman Service or Harvey’s Houses now) he was startled to be told ” Have a bacon butty you ******, or you’ll be here all ******g day.” He wanted to warn the employee to be careful. “Instead of just a harmless bloke like me” he might have been talking to someone writing a book about how bad rail service was these day who might”have used his real name” to illustrate the sheer awfulness of the modern British rail service.

But, no worries really, the ridership continues to increase in Britain as they – like us hapless Americans – experience the sheer arrogance, and inconvenience of air-travel, and the theater of the TSA, driving us back to the roads and railroads. It has become the “Age of the Train” after all!
1 vote John_Vaughan | Mar 15, 2012 |
Showing 1-5 of 7 (next | show all)
Not that you have to be a comic genius to find dark farce in our railway history. As a nation we had the engineering flair to pioneer railways, but lacked the political will to fund or manage them successfully, so that most of us practise what Engel calls "defensive travelling".
 
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To Geoffrey Moorhouse
friend, mentor, uncomplaining traveller
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Like so many of its nineteenth-century counterparts, the old railway town of Oswestry, on the Shropshire-Welsh border, no longer has a railway. (Prologue)
The train that now runs between Liverpool Lime Street and Manchester Victoria, currently operated by a company called Northern Rail, is unprepossessing even by the standards that the British have come to expect.
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A funny and affecting portrait of Britain's love hate relationship with the railway with a new chapter for this paperback edition Britain gave railways to the world, yet its own network is the dearest (definitely) and the worst (probably) in Western Europe. Trains are deeply embedded in the national psyche and folklore - yet it is considered uncool to care about them. For Matthew Engel the railway system is the ultimate expression of Britishness. It represents all the nation's ingenuity, incompetence, nostalgia, corruption, humour, capacity for suffering and even sexual repression. To uncover its mysteries, Engel has travelled the system from Penzance to Thurso, exploring its history and talking to people from politicians to platform staff. Along the way Engel ('half-John Betjeman, half-Victor Meldrew') finds the most charmingly bizarre train in Britain, the most beautiful branch line, the rudest railwayman, and - after a quest lasting decades - an Individual Pot of Strawberry Jam. Eleven Minutes Late is both a polemic and a paean, and it is also very funny.

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