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Energetic and sprawling, brimming with culture and piled high with layers of history: Rome is a beguiling, vivacious ever-changing creature. Good guidance is essential: it's easy to be waylaid by the big-ticket sites, myriad trattorias and cobblestoned shopping streets. Then again, who doesn't enjoy being distracted by a scenic spot to perch for aperitivo?We've pushed past the charm of gingham tablecloths and raffia-covered wine bottles to find the innovative chefs making their mark on the food scene and the best spots for an authentic plate of cacio e pepe. The finest shops are handpicked here too, from centuriesold tailors to up-and-coming designers, and we'll lead you through the bamboozling array of galleries, museums and architecture - even going underground at times - to reveal lesserknown gems. And then there are the colourful neighbourhoods that lie off the well-beaten path, the best rooftop venues for a late-night boogie and the places to head for an earlymorning run to work off all that pasta.