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Among the London districts, Chelsea has always held a special charm for residents and visitors alike - spacious and gracious with the River Thames as background, but with a unique history of artists, bohemians and good causes. Twelve chapters tell episodes from this history, based on buildings that mark the stages of change, connecting what can seen on the street with the hidden histories of architects, patrons and the diverse people who have made their lives in and around them. These range from Chelsea Old Church through the churches, military establishments, theatres, restaurants, housing and shops. The spaces between buildings can be as important as the buildings themselves, and Chelsea has had the benefit of landowners with long-term interests in improving the experience of residents and visitors, creating in recent years some exemplary regeneration projects that can act as models for un-obtrusive management of change.