Beautifully written. The author, an extraordinary man, is a doctor, mountaineer, former diplomat and co-founder of medicines sans frontier. A humorous account which describes the aesthetic transformation which many people experience undertaking this long distance pilgrimage. Recommended for any Camino aspirants. ( )

Jean-Christophe Rufin is a french doctor writer and diplomat; he won the prix Goncourt with Rouge Brasil in 2001. Immortelle Randonée was published in 2013 and relates the authors experience of completing a sizeable section of the route de Compestelle which is arguably the most famous of the long distance walking/pilgrimage routes. Known as the Camino or the Way of St Jacques it is now a network of routes stretching through France, Portugal and Spain that culminate in the shrine of the apostle St Jacques in the cathedral at Santiago de Compostela in Galicia northwest Spain. It was one of the most important Christian pilgrimages during the Middle Ages on which a plenary indulgence could be earned. Hundreds of Thousands (300,000 in 2017) set off from a variety of starting points across Europe to complete the walk. Jean-Christophe Rufin started his walk from Hendaye on the French/Spanish border which usually entails 38-40 days walking, doing an average of 23 kilometres per day.

This was of interest for me because my house is very close to one of the major routes through France and my daily walk covers about a kilometre of the route. I often see people (les Jacquets) on the path which opens out onto a tremendous view of the Pyrenees, which they have to cross and usually pass the time of day with them, saying something like "its not too far to the mountains". The Cahors Vallee du Lot tourist agencie's promotional leaflet describes the "adventure of the Camino" in glowing terms:

A transformation in the way you perceive the wonderful world around you. A transformation in the relationships you have with your loved ones, but also with complete strangers. On the way, you will see the masks fall to make way for authentic, sincere and deep exchanges. A transformation of yourself, and of the knowledge you have of it. As you walk, the answers to the questions that haunt your thoughts will appear discreetly on their own, until they become crystal clear.

Jean-Christophe Rufin's book touches on these thoughts and feelings, but also describes the reality of a long and arduous walk through a landscape that can be picturesque, but is often more like a typical urban sprawl.

He chose to walk alone and because of his insomnia; the result of being a light sleeper he chose to camp out whenever he could: the refuge halls and dormitories along the route are a nightmare for him and he avoids them whenever possible. After laying the groundwork and telling of his information gathering in Paris he takes a train down to Hendaye in South West France and sets off with all his belongings in his rucksack. He is an experienced alpinist, however he soon found that walking for 4-6 hours everyday takes its toll on the body and the first week of walking; which is described in some detail is nearly enough to make him give up. He meets other 'jacquets' along the way, but rarely gets involved in deep and meaningful conversations, he is not intent on interviewing other walkers in order to gather material for his book. He says he did not keep a diary and only decided to write up his experiences, on reflection, after completing his journey.

He writes about his journey in a chronological order and so the reader can feel his excitement and his tiredness as he nears his goal. There are two main routes from Hendaye to Santiago de Compestela and Rufin chose the Camino del Norte, which is less walked than the more popular Camino Frances. He does make a few detours to take in churches, chapels and monasteries along the way and attends mass when the opportunity arises, but he seems to tire of the religious experience. He devotes a chapter to describing his spiritual feelings as he is walking, often extremely tired, unwashed and outside of his ordinary daily life. He says it is more akin to a Buddhist's view of the world. He feels like a pilgrim:

"it delivers one from from the torments of thoughts and desires. It removes the vanity of the mind and all sufferance of the body. It erases the rigid envelope which surrounds the things and separates them from our consciousness. It puts one in resonance with nature. Like all initiation it penetrates the mind by the body and it is difficult of sharing this with those who have not experienced it."

He say that of course not everybody feels like this, as this is only particular to him "In leaving for St Jacques I was looking for nothing and I found it."

He has something to say about the tourists who travel by coach or cars and the crowds that gather for the final stages of the walk. It has become commercialised, but then again perhaps it always was, but one can still easily gain that true experience of a pilgrimage.

I was thoroughly entranced by Jean-Christophe's book, which would certainly serve well anybody thinking of taking on the Camino. It has some useful information, but more importantly Rufin takes the armchair reader with him, on a fabulous journey 4.5 stars. ( )

I haven't changed my mind! I'd still love to do this journey one day, although it seems more of a challenge than I thought! I've obviously only heard the rose coloured versions up to now. Quoting the author "While I was certainly suffering from all the discomforts and from the thought that there were a lot more to come, I also felt happy with this new asceticism. I understood how valuable it can be to lose everything, in order to find what is essential." The walk reduced his life down to basics and gave him time to reflect and learn about himself. I think this English translation is the best translation of any book, I've read to date. I usually find that non-English text loses something in the translation, but not this time! Jean-Christophe has a quiet sense humour and gives, in my opinion, a very honest account of his Pilgrimage. It was a delight to read and I feel like I've walked it with him. ( )