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Sweet and Low: A Family Story (2006)

by Rich Cohen

Other authors: See the other authors section.

MembersReviewsPopularityAverage ratingMentions
342976,353 (3.65)12
Sweet and Low is the amazing, bittersweet, hilarious story of an American family and its patriarch, a short-order cook named Ben Eisenstadt who, in the years after World War II, invented the sugar packet and Sweet'N Low, converting his Brooklyn cafeteria into a factory and amassing the great fortune that would destroy his family. It is also the story of immigrants to the New World, sugar, saccharine, obesity, and the health and diet craze, played out across countries and generations but also within the life of a single family, as the fortune and the factory passed from generation to generation. The author, Rich Cohen, a grandson (disinherited, and thus set free, along with his mother and siblings), has sought the truth of this rancorous, colorful history, mining thousands of pages of court documents accumulated in the long and sometimes corrupt life of the factor, and conducting interviews with members of his extended family. Along the way, the forty-year family battle over the fortune moves into its titanic phase, with the money and legacy up for grabs. Sweet and Low is the story of this struggle, a strange comic farce of machinations and double dealings, and of an extraordinary family and its fight for the American dream.… (more)
  1. 00
    Empty Mansions: The Mysterious Life of Huguette Clark and the Spending of a Great American Fortune by Bill Dedman (akblanchard)
    akblanchard: Both stories illustrate how wealth corrupts and families grow apart.
  2. 00
    JELL-O Girls: A Family History by Allie Rowbottom (akblanchard)
    akblanchard: Both books expose the dysfunctional families behind popular consumer products.
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» See also 12 mentions

Showing 1-5 of 9 (next | show all)
Fascinating story of the invention of sugar packets and Sweet n'Low, but at the cost of a family's harmony and conhesiveness. ( )
  schoenbc70 | Sep 2, 2023 |
What a great story! Ambition and greed and heartbreak and stupidity and pathology and all the evils of humankind packed tragically into a single family story. Every family has its story, and I only wish I had the time and talent to chronicle my family's foibles as skillfully as did Richard Cohen.
I share with Mr. Cohen the wish to know my own hidden answers about my family's past. I sympathize with everyone's self-destruction. When the money comes flowing in, it's too easy to avoid doing the hard things. Corruption is easy.

Thank you for showing me how the truth can set us free.
I especially love your quote..." to be disinherited is to be set free." ( )
  juliechabon | Feb 21, 2021 |
This was a very strange story - the dark secrets and family feuds behind a seemingly mundane sweetener manufacturer. I’m not sure what I expected with regards to this book – it had been on my to-read list for so long I’d forgotten why I’d added it in the first place. But it didn’t disappoint. I’ll admit there were a few times when I thought the technical details about the industry could have been scaled down, & at times there just wasn’t enough dirt dishing for my liking. But as it was written by a member of the family I can understand why there wasn’t more muck spread, & this was balanced out a little by the honesty that was there. I remember as I read being impressed by Cohen’s ability to interpret his family. Not that these interpretations are necessarily right, as they are just his own take on things, but because of the amount of insight it must take to be objective on any level about the way members of your own family treat one another. It stopped the book being either a bitter attack on relations nor a soppy sentimental dirge. The balance was really fairly spot on.
( )
  SadieBabie | Jun 23, 2018 |
What drama, what intrigue, what pathology! I always say that someone needs to tap my family for disertation material, but after reading this book I realize we are practically the Brady clan. The interpersonal drama is fascinating and sad and funny, but it is really only the tip of the iceberg. This book is a wonderful historical document of a certain kind of immigrant experience. It is also a blast to read. After finishing I immediately ordered another Cohen book, "Tough Jews." I can't wait to learn about the other side of this man's family. ( )
  Narshkite | Mar 10, 2014 |
I wrote this review in May of 2007 for a readers' advisory project. For the sake of the project, I had to keep my official comments uniformly positive.

What I said (in May, 2007):

Sweet and Low by Rich Cohen. The story of the dysfunctional family behind the Sweet-N-Low sugar substitute empire, as told by a disinherited member of the clan. Clever writing, colorful characters, and a broad perspective on the impact of artificial sweeteners on American culture make this family saga worth reading.

What I really thought (in May, 2007):

This book kept me reading, with is always a good thing. However, it was not without its flaws. The author is writing about his own family, but since he grew up not in Brooklyn but in Glencoe, IL, there's a lot he doesn't know. For example, Cohen doesn't know his "Uncle Marvelous's" level of involvement in the embezzlement that almost brought down the company. Cohen (who is also the author of a book called Tough Jews, about Jewish gangsters), would like to come across as a street-smart guy, but that's hard to do when you're from the ultra-wealthy North Shore area of suburban Chicago.

Cohen does offers some interesting insights into the the impact of artificial sweeteners (and "the dieting craze in America") on American culture. But, if anything, the perspective is a little too broad. His digressions on dieting, organized crime, and immigrant Jewish culture, and the proper running of a family business, go on a little too long. There's too much stuffed into the book, and way, way too many footnotes and similes, many of them irrelevant.

What I think now (Dec., 2013):

Cohen has some interesting things to say about the way families work.On page 7, he has the following exchange with his uncle Marvin:

[Uncle Marvin] said, "This is not easy for me. You children were always a big part of us. And yet it's not so unusual either, this kind of split in the family."

[Rich Cohen] said, "I guess it's why so few people know their second cousins."

Toward the end of the book, Cohen writes, "So this is how it ends, how cousins grow apart, this is how the members if the family have children and you have children and the children grow up as strangers, who have children, until any connection is lost. So this is how the planet is populated. This is how Brooklyn continues". (p. 262).

These observations have stayed with me all these years, perhaps because I've seen family splits ("few people know[ing] their second cousins") happen more than once. ( )
  akblanchard | Dec 10, 2013 |
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» Add other authors (1 possible)

Author nameRoleType of authorWork?Status
Rich Cohenprimary authorall editionscalculated
Duzyj, MickeyCover artistsecondary authorsome editionsconfirmed
Kagan, AbbyDesignersecondary authorsome editionsconfirmed
Lachmann, Nora PetraÜbersetzersecondary authorsome editionsconfirmed
Medoff, JeremyPhotographersecondary authorsome editionsconfirmed
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TO ELLEN AND HER ISSUE
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Everyone in my family tells this story, but everyone starts it in a different way.
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(Click to show. Warning: May contain spoilers.)
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Sweet and Low is the amazing, bittersweet, hilarious story of an American family and its patriarch, a short-order cook named Ben Eisenstadt who, in the years after World War II, invented the sugar packet and Sweet'N Low, converting his Brooklyn cafeteria into a factory and amassing the great fortune that would destroy his family. It is also the story of immigrants to the New World, sugar, saccharine, obesity, and the health and diet craze, played out across countries and generations but also within the life of a single family, as the fortune and the factory passed from generation to generation. The author, Rich Cohen, a grandson (disinherited, and thus set free, along with his mother and siblings), has sought the truth of this rancorous, colorful history, mining thousands of pages of court documents accumulated in the long and sometimes corrupt life of the factor, and conducting interviews with members of his extended family. Along the way, the forty-year family battle over the fortune moves into its titanic phase, with the money and legacy up for grabs. Sweet and Low is the story of this struggle, a strange comic farce of machinations and double dealings, and of an extraordinary family and its fight for the American dream.

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