Steven Kurutz

American Flannel begins with a harsh statistic: in 1980, 70% of American clothing was made in the United States. Today, it’s only 2%. Yes, you read that correctly. Over the years the apparel industry outsourced its operations to developing countries. Eventually these low cost operations became table stakes for survival in a highly competitive industry. But at the same time, the garment quality declined. Anyone of a certain age will remember when sweatshirts were warm and durable; today show more they are made from lighter weight cloth and wear out more quickly.

But some brave souls are trying to stage a comeback. Steven Kurutz profiles two companies, American Giant and Zkano socks, who have overcome repeated obstacles to successfully sell high-quality products made entirely in the United States. I learned a lot about the apparel supply chain and the pressures the industry has faced over the years. I was also fascinated by the story of flannel, which requires complex dyeing and weaving methods in order to produce the shirts so ubiquitous in American wardrobes.

Kurutz makes a strong case for domestic manufacturing, but improving this will be only part of the solution to strengthening the American apparel industry. Manufacturing jobs are often low-paying and pose health risks, but union protection disappeared with the move offshore. And yet, low-cost manufacturing enabled “fast fashion,” which has generated a massive amount of waste which we have yet to get under control. This is a classic wicked problem which cannot be easily untangled, but American Flannel shows one way to start. show less

I'm old enough to recall the denim, flannel, t-shirts, sweatshirts, etc that are referenced throughout American Flannel and I too long for them to return. I was aware US textile manufacturing had reduced significantly over the last several decades, but still found the current numbers very disturbing. Learned a great deal about socks and other woven materials in this very interesting book and have already recommended it to several friends. A surprisingly wonderful read that will make you look show more at your closet and all your apparel/fabrics in a very different light. My hat is off to Kurutz for dedicating a book to this topic. show less

3.5 stars. A bit glib and breezy at times, but a fascinating slice of life and history. If you’re interested in domestic textile production in the USA you’ll likely enjoy this quick read.

Good summary of the current status of the US apparel and textile industries and the challenges faced by globalized off-shoring. Some optimism that creative niches are being created by craft companies that emphasize quality and authenticity.