The Only Street in Paris: Life on the Rue des Martyrs

This book was part travel story, part sociology, part cultural studies, and part gossip and a thorough delight to read. It reminded me of the apartment we had rented in Paris for a brief stay just a couple of blocks from the rue de Martyrs which the book discussed. It made me want to go back, to stay longer, to learn French and to once again be in love with being in a foreign country, with unfamiliar people and a culture that I envy.

Best for: Those who love Paris and enjoy learning more about specific neighborhoods (or in this case, a single street).

In a nutshell: U.S. ex-pat and journalist Ms. Sciolino provides a look at the individuals who live and work on the Rue des Martyrs, providing current information and a look at the history of the street.

Line that sticks with me: “A hardware store has been at No. 1 since 1865.” (p 56)

Why I chose it: On our whirlwind visit to 19 independent books stores on Seattle Bookstore Day, we stopped at a travel bookstore and saw this. I love Paris, and liked the idea of learning the stories of a few people from one neighborhood.

Review: This book has some really lovely moments, and a few questionable editorial choices. Ms. show more Sciolino moved to Paris in 2002, and to the Rue des Martyrs a few years later. After her editor suggested she write an article on the closing of a fish shop on the street, she decided to explore the area more, focusing just on the people and shops of this single strip in Paris, stretching from the 9th to the 18th arrondissements.

Some of the stories are lovely and sweet, providing a look at the lives of current business owners who carry on traditions for years. Some locations have had the same type of business in it for literally decades if not longer. The stories also often have a bit of history in them, especially the recurrent theme of the origin story of Saint Denis (and Catholicism in general). I could picture some of the locations, having been to Paris and walked down this street before; mostly it just made me want to return.

As I said up front, there were a couple of decisions that I found somewhat questionable. The first was the repeated use of the term ‘transsexual’ when describing a cabaret that feature drag shows (http://www.michou.com/fr/un-spectacle-innoubliable/). I appreciate that I may be lacking in knowledge in this area, but my understanding has been that this term is, if not insulting, as least displays ignorance. But again, I’ve been wrong in the past. Regardless, it was jarring to read repeatedly.

The second is her picking and choosing which religious beliefs to spend time on. There is a chapter that is (mostly) well done that focuses on Jewish life on the Rue; in it Ms. Sciolino discusses the Jewish schoolgirls who were killed after France did not protect them during WWII, the Nazi occupation, and explores the Jewish heritage of this street. She also spends considerable time — and a few chapters — discussing the Catholic history of the street. Is there no Muslim history she could have explored? Are any of the shopkeepers she interviewed Muslim, and have they found challenges with the rise in French anti-Muslim sentiments? This perspective would have been nice to learn about.

Finally, she's clearly an upper-middle-class woman who may truly be friends with some of the shopkeepers, but others she interviewed may have just been humoring her inquiries as they did not wish to lose her business.

That aside, this is still a book I would probably recommend to someone about to visit Paris and stay in the 9th or 18th arrondissement. show less

This book was part travel story, part sociology, part cultural studies, and part gossip and a thorough delight to read. It reminded me of the apartment we had rented in Paris for a brief stay just a couple of blocks from the rue de Martyrs which the book discussed. It made me want to go back, to stay longer, to learn French and to once again be in love with being in a foreign country, with unfamiliar people and a culture that I envy.

So did not want this book to end. Loved reading about this street which retains so many individual shop owners, many specializing in just one thing. The history of some of the buildings, meeting the shopkeepers, the history of the area and the delightful stores themselves. The books, famous writers, artists who once made this place their homes or mentioned them in their novels. The feel, the tone, the passion made me feel as if I was there. Definitely a place I would love to visit one day. Informative, entertaining and delightful.

A deep dive into a great Paris street by a former NYT journalist. Lots of interesting history that you probably won't find anywhere else. Mainly for hardcore Paris history buffs, although well-written and interesting just the same. A welcome break from the usual books about the usual more well-known tourist spots.

I've stated in my updates how much I loved this book. All the characters on the Rue de Martyrs were charming, even if they weren't particularly friendly, and it gives me a small thrill to remember that this is not a novel and these people really do exist. I have been to Paris once before and didn't visit this area, but I think that when I return (and I will return) I should like to take a stroll through the street, nipping in and out of the shops as Elaine describes. I am a big fan of Haussmann (who designed the modern, clean Paris we see today), but would definitely find it interesting to walk through this street stuck in time. I certainly wouldn't have found out about the Rue de Martyrs and its significance if it wasn't for this show more book.

Also, I am on a bit of a Parisian memoir binge lately, and this book certainly satisfied my craving. If you are in love with Parisian life, read this! show less

Light and entertaining look at the people and their trades, some history and some religion of one street in Paris.