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The Dark Heart of Italy by Tobias Jones
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The Dark Heart of Italy

by Tobias Jones

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  benskinner | Sep 17, 2009 |
The wonder of this book is not that it reveals something new, even at the time it was originally written (2003), because it doesn't, but that the author is still alive, in Italy. Am I cynic? Maybe.

Italy is a fantastic country with a diversity of cultures and kitchens, full of beauty, but it's a country both high on civilization and low on it. Every time I visit the country I feel a calm descending on me, revelling in ordering a macchiato in the knowledge I'll get some high quality coffee. In many ways 'italian' to me is a by-word for style.

But every time I'm also anguished by the stubborn backwardness. Internet connection at your hotel? Weeeeell... One time I spent a day and a half arguing with staff before they said that of course could I have an internet connection - for €5/30 minutes. Two days and ceaseless arguments later they actually admitted that I could have a 24 hour access card for €18.
At that time I had almost left for another hotel, more forthcoming on the internet issue, had it not been for the fact that my hotel had a socket I could use to recharge my laptop while the other one (where a colleague of mine stayed) demanded a special adapter... and the conference centre hosting the conference we attended offered free internet (but a lack of sockets).

I also despair at the highways leading nowhere, the strikes ("buses to Palermo today, sorry, strike, you'll have to take the train", "to Olbia? Well, it's a strike so I don't know which trains will run but there's on in an hour which will take you half the way, if it leaves"), the skeleton buildings that never will be finished...

It's also a violent country, strung out on each side of a polarised rift that to all evidence seems to be much the same - political violence, nepotism, angry corrupted old men, wherever you go. I long ago gave up on knowing who was in power, other than when it's that man Berlusconi, and that is mainly down to the fact that he distinguishes himself as a fount of idiocy.

The author discusses the politics, the culture, and a lot of things Italian, and was accused of paining a too dark a picture, but personally I think his love for his adopted country is evident. That makes the book more than the righteous pamphlet it could had been - it makes it enjoyable.

He comes to no conclusion, naturally - this is more a chronicle than anything else. But as such it's very good.

If you have any interest in understanding the diversity of cultures that exists on this planet this book this book ought to be high on your must-read list. ( )
1 vote Busifer | Jan 17, 2009 |
If you are planning to live in Italy, no matter how long your stay, I strongly suggest this book to quickly get into the Italian mindset

But beware: you could get lost in the details- and this book is just a sampling of the mind-boggling history of intrigue

For a more historical perspective, up to the 1960s, see the reference to the "History of the Italian people" in my library :-) or contact me at www.cwcommunity.org ( )
  aleph123 | Jan 10, 2009 |
An excellent book full of information about the Italian way of life. He manages to be both critical of the Italian way and also sympathetic, realistic and idealistic. Amusing and engaging book. ( )
  Tifi | Dec 24, 2008 |
Tobias Jones did a very good job at describing the dark side of Italy. He wonders why there are so many misteries in Italy, why there is a "slaughter commision" when almost all these kind of crimes go unpunished, and he investigates Silvio Berlusconi's massive influence over Italian politics and society. For an Italian reader, like myself, it is a very painful reading, and the saddest part is that Jones wrote this book in 2003, and things here in Italy have been getting worse ever since. ( )
  sandburg | May 27, 2008 |
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Amazon.com Product Description (ISBN 0865477000, Hardcover)

In 1999 Tobias Jones immigrated to Italy, expecting to discover the pastoral bliss described by centuries of foreign visitors. Instead, he found a very different country: one besieged by unfathomable terrorism and deep-seated paranoia. The Dark Heart of Italy is Jones's account of his four-year voyage across the Italian peninsula.

Jones writes not just about Italy's art, climate, and cuisine but also about the much livelier and stranger sides of the Bel Paese: the language, soccer, Catholicism, cinema, television, and terrorism. Why, he wonders, does the parliament need a "slaughter commission"? Why do bombs still explode every time politics start getting serious? Why does everyone urge him to go home as soon as possible, saying that Italy is a "brothel"? Most of all, why does one man, Silvio Berlusconi--in the words of a famous song--appear to own everything from Padre Nostro (Our Father) to Cosa Nostra (the Mafia)?

The Italy that emerges from Jones's travels is a country scarred by civil wars and "illustrious corpses"; a country that is proudly visual rather than verbal, based on aesthetics rather than ethics; a country where crime is hardly ever followed by punishment; a place of incredible illusionism, where it is impossible to distinguish fantasy from reality and fact from fiction.

(retrieved from Amazon Fri, 24 Apr 2009 07:58:22 -0400)

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