A Life on the Edge: Memoirs of Everest and Beyond

Whittaker has had an interesting life, and he lays it out engagingly. But this memoir lacks that extra spark that it would need for me to recommend it beyond his family and friends. It also lacks much self awareness. It is hard to read his complaints, especially about money, without an acknowledgement of his incredible luck and privilege. (He is outraged when someone calls him out for abusing his privileges after he calls a senator for a favor. He is scandalized when he is held partially responsible for a fraudulent company that he was responsible for but failed to supervise.) His environmental awareness is remarkably low (no mention of climate change, no thoughts about his own environmental impact, from flying all over to world, having show more five kids, building mansions in unspoiled wilderness, etc.). It is strange that a sperm collection is given as much attention as most of his relationships. I think there must be much more to Whittaker's life and personality than is conveyed here. show less

Overall, a pretty good book from someone who's not a professional writer. the book covers in gripping detail many of his mountain ascents, such as Rainier, Everest, K-2 and a return to Everest. Woven in is the story of the early days of REI, which he helped found.

As usual I have quibbles. While he goes through the motions of blaming his divorce from his wife, his split with REI and a post-REI business failure on himself, he backhandedly shifts the blame to others. In the case of his business fialure this seems justified; his partner was a thief. In the others I cannot believe that he didn't have more of a role.

With many autobiographies I sense puffery and self-justification. That isn't quite asa prevalent here. Jim Whittaker overall show more seems like a giant of a man and the book is well worth reading.. show less

Jim Whittaker is certainly not a great author but I enjoyed his memoir "A Life on the Edge: Memoirs of Everest and Beyond" anyway.

I've read far better books about his K2 expeditions (Galen Rowell's excellent "In the Throne Room of the Mountain Gods" and Rick Ridgeway's "The Last Step".... both are phenomenal) but it was interesting to finally hear about the expeditions from Whittaker, who was their leader. He glosses over some of the conflicts that are so central to the other books, but he does mention them and give his take.

The most fascinating parts of the book come at the beginning as he details how he got into climbing and his ascent of Everest. Overall, this is a solid book (with great pictures to boot) but certainly not a show more standout amongst mountaineering books. show less

The more famous of the two brothers, Jim talks about his mountaineering adventures. It has a lot of Everest climbing, which I enjoy.