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1TheExplorer
Over the last couple of years I have grown my personal library and have aquired older books. Aside from the basics, such as keeping them dust-free and in a stable climate, do you use other methods to preserve your books?
For example, my leatherbound dictionaries from the 1920s had very brittle leather, so I applied leather dressing (Accessible Preservatives Leather Dressing) to preserve them for the future.
So far, none of my FS books are older than 30 years and they are all in very good condition, but I'm sure some of you have older editions that might need more special care.
For example, my leatherbound dictionaries from the 1920s had very brittle leather, so I applied leather dressing (Accessible Preservatives Leather Dressing) to preserve them for the future.
So far, none of my FS books are older than 30 years and they are all in very good condition, but I'm sure some of you have older editions that might need more special care.
2garyjbp
>1 TheExplorer: I have Folio books from every year of its existence. I don't do anything special for them except to keep them out of direct sunlight. Some of them have faded spines, but I believe that was due to the previous owners. I also have a lot of books from the 19th century, that I keep in a closed bookcase, which I think moderates changes in heat and humidity. I have not seen any evidence of brittle leather or other damage, except that some of the hinges have broken. on one, an 1858 edition of RS Surtees's "Ask Mama", the front board is broken off, and the spine is peeling off, but all that happened before I got it.
So I guess the gist of my post is that you should try to control heat and humidity and keep them out of direct sunlight.
So I guess the gist of my post is that you should try to control heat and humidity and keep them out of direct sunlight.
3TheExplorer
I also thought about buying a closed case for some of my older books. Unfortunately, I don't have the space for it, so that will have to remain a dream for quite some time. The reason why I used the leather dressing (one that is made for books, not a shoe cream) is that a bookbinder from around here recommended it to me, especially for cheaper leathers, which tend to become brittle. So my set of dictionaries must have been made from lower grade leather, which makes sense since they were made in Germany in the 20s, and I doubt they were swimming in high quality ressources at the time.
4affle
>1 TheExplorer:
There is a group dedicated to book care and repair:
http://www.librarything.com/groups/bookcareandrepair
Opinions are divided about the wisdom of dressing leather bindings.
There is a group dedicated to book care and repair:
http://www.librarything.com/groups/bookcareandrepair
Opinions are divided about the wisdom of dressing leather bindings.
5sdawson
I live in an old (1886) house in Oregon. No way to control the climate and humidity in my house. It is what it is.
I do believe that sunlight does the most harm though, so I definite place book cases away from the sun. For my particularly valuable books, I have a few bookcases with doors, and they get moved into there. The rest are not.
I do believe that sunlight does the most harm though, so I definite place book cases away from the sun. For my particularly valuable books, I have a few bookcases with doors, and they get moved into there. The rest are not.
6terebinth
Our house dates from 1895, and is heated as required by its human occupants by solid fuel and electric convector heaters: again, then, the books have to put up with whatever temperature and humidity they get, and they don't seem to suffer markedly. Rooms are generally pretty dim here anyway but books are kept as far as possible from such sunlight as does enter.
I'm not really a book collector, just a reader who relishes fine printing and binding when they're available, so my conservation practices are emphatically not recommendations to the world at large. But, about 25 years ago, my mother was visiting one day and handed me a jar of Renapur Leather Balsam - a "formula of natural waxes and oils, such as Beeswax, Carnauba wax, Jojoba oil and Avocado oil". I've used about a third of it so far on a variety of leather items including any old books - usually 19th century ones - whose bindings were turning at all crumbly, and those I treated 20-odd years ago seemed immediately improved to a greater or lesser degree and remain so to this day with no further such attention. An 1820s edition of Jeremy Taylor's Holy Living whose joints were shedding dust whenever handled sticks in my mind as seeming to be almost miraculously reconstituted by the treatment, into the solid and flexible leather it has remained ever since. So I expect I'll carry on using the stuff, though I'll probably not bother buying another jar unless some development increases my currently slender hopes of still being around in 2075 to need it.
I'm not really a book collector, just a reader who relishes fine printing and binding when they're available, so my conservation practices are emphatically not recommendations to the world at large. But, about 25 years ago, my mother was visiting one day and handed me a jar of Renapur Leather Balsam - a "formula of natural waxes and oils, such as Beeswax, Carnauba wax, Jojoba oil and Avocado oil". I've used about a third of it so far on a variety of leather items including any old books - usually 19th century ones - whose bindings were turning at all crumbly, and those I treated 20-odd years ago seemed immediately improved to a greater or lesser degree and remain so to this day with no further such attention. An 1820s edition of Jeremy Taylor's Holy Living whose joints were shedding dust whenever handled sticks in my mind as seeming to be almost miraculously reconstituted by the treatment, into the solid and flexible leather it has remained ever since. So I expect I'll carry on using the stuff, though I'll probably not bother buying another jar unless some development increases my currently slender hopes of still being around in 2075 to need it.
8Polar_bear
>6 terebinth: Renapur is still in production and I have a bottle bought a few years back at ... Crufts!!
9terebinth
>8 Polar_bear:
Yes, http://www.renapur.com/shop/renapur-leather-balsam-200ml-54.html looks like a mildly restyled version of my pot... I'm sure it would extend the useful life of collars and leads too! I think my mother had been persuaded of its merits at a local craft fair.
Yes, http://www.renapur.com/shop/renapur-leather-balsam-200ml-54.html looks like a mildly restyled version of my pot... I'm sure it would extend the useful life of collars and leads too! I think my mother had been persuaded of its merits at a local craft fair.
10dlphcoracl
>1 TheExplorer:
Here are some things I have found useful in caring for fine & private press books:
1. Make a dust wrapper for each book from a 25 x 40 inch sheet of .003" Clear Grafix Dura-Lar. This is an archival material that does not interact with leather, marbled papers, etc. and it is especially useful in keeping leather from drying and cracking. It can be ordered online from Dick Blick art supplies.
http://www.dickblick.com
2. Have a bookbinder make a custom slipcase for selected books, i.e., books that are fragile, extremely large, etc.
3. Keep the books out of direct sunlight and ideally place them on shelves that are in a darker portion of my house.
4. Treat the spine and external hinges of books with older leather that appears dried with a product called Maroquin Ledervaseline, a superb product made in Germany for books with older leather. I apply a very light coat with my fingers, let it sit for five minutes or so, then wipe it off with a soft cloth or tissue.
http://www.maroquin.de/Seite15.html
5. Never open fine & private press books more than about 110 to 120 degrees - i.e., do not place them on a desk or table and open them 180 degrees so that both binding covers lie flat against the surface. This is guaranteed to weaken the binding and/or create tears in the paper covering the internal hinges.
One final comment: although I keep my most valuable books in a closed cabinet or closet I keep the door(s) open a crack so that the books can "breathe". I think (but cannot prove) that keeping books enclosed without exposure to "fresh" air is conducive to creating foxing on the pages of older hand made papers.
Here are some things I have found useful in caring for fine & private press books:
1. Make a dust wrapper for each book from a 25 x 40 inch sheet of .003" Clear Grafix Dura-Lar. This is an archival material that does not interact with leather, marbled papers, etc. and it is especially useful in keeping leather from drying and cracking. It can be ordered online from Dick Blick art supplies.
http://www.dickblick.com
2. Have a bookbinder make a custom slipcase for selected books, i.e., books that are fragile, extremely large, etc.
3. Keep the books out of direct sunlight and ideally place them on shelves that are in a darker portion of my house.
4. Treat the spine and external hinges of books with older leather that appears dried with a product called Maroquin Ledervaseline, a superb product made in Germany for books with older leather. I apply a very light coat with my fingers, let it sit for five minutes or so, then wipe it off with a soft cloth or tissue.
http://www.maroquin.de/Seite15.html
5. Never open fine & private press books more than about 110 to 120 degrees - i.e., do not place them on a desk or table and open them 180 degrees so that both binding covers lie flat against the surface. This is guaranteed to weaken the binding and/or create tears in the paper covering the internal hinges.
One final comment: although I keep my most valuable books in a closed cabinet or closet I keep the door(s) open a crack so that the books can "breathe". I think (but cannot prove) that keeping books enclosed without exposure to "fresh" air is conducive to creating foxing on the pages of older hand made papers.
11TheExplorer
>10 dlphcoracl:
Thank you for your help!
I've found something regarding your air circulation theory " Good air circulation is imperative to prevent stagnant air pockets where condensation will collect and mold will grow." from http://www.conservation-us.org/about-conservation/caring-for-your-treasures/book... under the headline -shelving-.
I can't seem to find any sufficiently sized book stand that would allow me to place a book in it at a 110 ro 120 degree angle. Do you have any recommendations or do I have to build my own?
Thank you for your help!
I've found something regarding your air circulation theory " Good air circulation is imperative to prevent stagnant air pockets where condensation will collect and mold will grow." from http://www.conservation-us.org/about-conservation/caring-for-your-treasures/book... under the headline -shelving-.
I can't seem to find any sufficiently sized book stand that would allow me to place a book in it at a 110 ro 120 degree angle. Do you have any recommendations or do I have to build my own?
12dlphcoracl
>11 TheExplorer:
When I stated that the book should be "opened 110 to 120 degrees" I did not mean to come across as being anal-compulsive and sitting at my desk with protractor in hand before opening a book :-) . I only meant to emphasize that one should not open a book entirely flat (180 degrees) because it damages the binding. 110 to 120 degrees is only a guesstimate - and this is done easily and naturally by sitting in your favorite reading chair or sofa, placing book on lap, and comfortably opening it !!
For using a book stand or small lectern on top of a library or reading desk, there was a detailed discussion of this recently on the Folio Society Devotees LT site. Look for a thread entitled 'book stand' - which is currently dormant- with a last (most recent) entry by Neil77 on November 23 or simply click on the link below:
http://www.librarything.com/topic/205762
There are many good and cost effective choices here!!
The most important suggestion, by far, is to make the clear dust wrappers for each book with Grafix Dura-Lar Clear. Each sheet comes with a tissue paper overlay so that you can precisely measure and mark out the size of the dust wrapper you want to create and then cut along your measurement lines with a large scissor, then shape and fit it to your book. IMHO, it is essential to protecting leather bindings from drying out and cracking and preventing cloth or paper covered boards from staining or wear.
One final note: in using the Maroquin Ledervaseline use a VERY thin coat on the leather and do not let it sit on the leather for more than 5 minutes (or so) to prevent it from darkening the leather. It you have a type of leather in which you are uncertain the Maroquin will alter the coloration, e.g., deerskin, sheepskin, etc., find an inconspicuous spot to test it on before applying. I like to use the leather turn-ins at the rear cover of a full leather binding or the very bottom of the book spine of a book with a 1/4 or 1/2 leather binding (spine) with cloth or paper covered boards.
Hope this helps !!
When I stated that the book should be "opened 110 to 120 degrees" I did not mean to come across as being anal-compulsive and sitting at my desk with protractor in hand before opening a book :-) . I only meant to emphasize that one should not open a book entirely flat (180 degrees) because it damages the binding. 110 to 120 degrees is only a guesstimate - and this is done easily and naturally by sitting in your favorite reading chair or sofa, placing book on lap, and comfortably opening it !!
For using a book stand or small lectern on top of a library or reading desk, there was a detailed discussion of this recently on the Folio Society Devotees LT site. Look for a thread entitled 'book stand' - which is currently dormant- with a last (most recent) entry by Neil77 on November 23 or simply click on the link below:
http://www.librarything.com/topic/205762
There are many good and cost effective choices here!!
The most important suggestion, by far, is to make the clear dust wrappers for each book with Grafix Dura-Lar Clear. Each sheet comes with a tissue paper overlay so that you can precisely measure and mark out the size of the dust wrapper you want to create and then cut along your measurement lines with a large scissor, then shape and fit it to your book. IMHO, it is essential to protecting leather bindings from drying out and cracking and preventing cloth or paper covered boards from staining or wear.
One final note: in using the Maroquin Ledervaseline use a VERY thin coat on the leather and do not let it sit on the leather for more than 5 minutes (or so) to prevent it from darkening the leather. It you have a type of leather in which you are uncertain the Maroquin will alter the coloration, e.g., deerskin, sheepskin, etc., find an inconspicuous spot to test it on before applying. I like to use the leather turn-ins at the rear cover of a full leather binding or the very bottom of the book spine of a book with a 1/4 or 1/2 leather binding (spine) with cloth or paper covered boards.
Hope this helps !!
13TheExplorer
>12 dlphcoracl: I should have added that I want a book stand for some of my very heavy books that I can't just hold in my lap. Aside from Night Thoughts LE I own several other large leather books , and until now I just placed them on top of a table. A more elegant solution would add to the reading experience, aside from any benefits it might have on the longevity of the books. I will check out the thread you recommended, it looks very promising from what i can see.
The debate about whether to use leather dressing is very confusing to me. Both sides seem to have established book-binders and conservators on their side, and there seems to be no definitive study on the subject. So far I've only used leather dressing on some rather cheap older books, and they look and feel better until now. It just seems strange to me that every from of leather product should benefit from some form of leather dressing with the only exception being leather books, but that's just a gut feeling.
The debate about whether to use leather dressing is very confusing to me. Both sides seem to have established book-binders and conservators on their side, and there seems to be no definitive study on the subject. So far I've only used leather dressing on some rather cheap older books, and they look and feel better until now. It just seems strange to me that every from of leather product should benefit from some form of leather dressing with the only exception being leather books, but that's just a gut feeling.
14sdawson
>11 TheExplorer:
Regarding air circulation and mold, what you say make sense.
Off topic, but in my experience, this also applies to houses in general. I have neighbors with old houses (100+) like mine, and friends at work with new houses. New houses are sealed up tight, and are more efficient to heat and cool (so I am told). Yet I know 4 co workers, who over the years, have had to deal with house mold. They were all newer houses. Yet, I have not heard of any of the older homes having to deal with this. I think it's related to air circulation as well.
We do have other issues to be cautious of (lead paint and asbestos covered pipes come to mind), but not mold.
-Shawn
Regarding air circulation and mold, what you say make sense.
Off topic, but in my experience, this also applies to houses in general. I have neighbors with old houses (100+) like mine, and friends at work with new houses. New houses are sealed up tight, and are more efficient to heat and cool (so I am told). Yet I know 4 co workers, who over the years, have had to deal with house mold. They were all newer houses. Yet, I have not heard of any of the older homes having to deal with this. I think it's related to air circulation as well.
We do have other issues to be cautious of (lead paint and asbestos covered pipes come to mind), but not mold.
-Shawn
15JustinTChan
I coat the pages with pate fois gras. Smells delicious.
17scholasticus
>15 JustinTChan:
Please don't speak of foie gras. I'm still depressed from my trip. I hated foie gras before I left, but once I had proper foie gras in France, life has just not been the same, alas. Just looking at the .... 'offerings' that my local (specialty) grocery stores have is enough to drive me mad.
Please don't speak of foie gras. I'm still depressed from my trip. I hated foie gras before I left, but once I had proper foie gras in France, life has just not been the same, alas. Just looking at the .... 'offerings' that my local (specialty) grocery stores have is enough to drive me mad.
