Eight Bells and Top Masts: Diaries from a Tramp Steamer

by Christopher Lee

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The time is the late 1950s. It is an end of an era. The end of the trade in which an old converted coal-burning ship with a Chinese crew and a handful of British officers would tramp from port to port, picking up cargo where it could, never knowing where it, and they, would be heading next.

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2 reviews
I did not mean to read this book just yet – I am working through one of Simon Schama’s tomes – but I opened it to see if I would like the author’s “voice”. The following afternoon I finished and shelved the book.

Within just a few paragraphs I was excitedly telling my wife, “This book is my story too! I could have written it myself”. Well, perhaps, but not as well as Christopher Lee. As his story developed it drew away from my own similar experience, in the same time and on the same shores and seas. Lee had just the one trip – abruptly terminated in a Singapore hospital with acute appendicitis. He was flown home, and went to University, launching a new ‘trip’ as a career journalist and becoming the foreign affairs show more correspondent for the BBC. My own sea-going continued a further seven years, as Christopher Lee became a history professor and author.

This story is the authors description of his fist, and it was to transpire, only, trip on ”deep sea” articles aboard a ‘Tramp’ – one of that once huge fleet of wandering traders whose time was fast approaching an end, with giant ‘Container’ ships already looming above the blue horizons. It is built around his scribbled notes in school text-books, his memories and crafted with creative humour.

As a Kentish lad Lee worked the Thames barges around the estuaries and coastal towns in which we both grew up … Whitstable, Sheerness and up to the London docks. He joins the Merchant Navy to go ‘deep sea’ and in joining his first ship, he describes crossing the Thames to the docks on a ferry filled with early morning Stevedores. On reading this I recalled those dreich morning crossings with those darkly flat-capped Dockies with their wet ‘Old Holbourn’ fag ends, hacking out the smokers early-morning chorus of hawks and gasps! His words vividly brought back the weight and roughness of a kit-bag on the shoulder, and the excited but dreading anticipation of both ship and trip.
The author crafts a great tale, deeply involves the reader from the first page and leaves a void when the book is closed.

Even if you never hankered to run away to sea you should enjoy this well told tale of ocean wandering and, of course, of a young lad maturing.
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Very charming story. Adapted from author's own diary, written as an 18-year old apprentice on one of the last tramp steamers.

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Tramping - cruising from port to port around the world, loading here, unloading there according to whatever deals the owners could strike - gave the lad glimpses of Shanghai, Hong Kong, Colombo, Suez, Gibraltar and Havana. He remained innocent; when the rest of the crew were buying girls in Madras with bars of pink Sunlight soap, Lee visited the Flying Angels, Anglican chaplains stationed in show more every port 'to stop us bagging off', or having sex. Thus he avoided 'the full house - gonorrhoea, diarrhoea and pyorrhoea.' show less
Jonathan Mirsky, Spectator, UK
Oct 6, 2011
added by John_Vaughan

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46+ Works 1,015 Members

Classifications

Genres
Travel, Nonfiction, Biography & Memoir, General Nonfiction
DDC/MDS
910History & geographyGeography & travelmodified standard subdivisions of Geography and travel
BISAC

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Reviews
2
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Languages
English
Media
Paper
ISBNs
4