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Loading... The Happy Isles of Oceania: Paddling the Pacific (1992)by Paul Theroux
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No current Talk conversations about this book. I tend to have a nonfiction book on the go with a fiction...read your daily chapter of the n/f then you can indulge in the latter. It says something about Mr Theroux' writing abilities that I shelved the novel (and it was a great novel!) to immerse myself in his travels around Australia, NZ and the various islands of the Pacific, culminating in Easter Island and Hawaii. It's never boring. I'm trying to work out why he succeeds where other travelogues can be SO turgid. For a start, the whole adventure revoves around the author- HIS mindset, experiences at sea, interaction with locals and other tourists. It keeps the reader involved ...too much factual commentary can be like looking at someone else'soverly extensive holiday snaps...a bit of a yawn. It's extremely funny too, as he delves into both the urban and the off the beaten track. Even a volcano is brought entertainingly to life: "In the distance I could hear the volcano grumbling and eructating, the amplified belches like those of a fat man after an enormous meal; and these sounds of digestion were accompanied by distant crepitating rumbles like those of loosened bowels. The expression 'bowels of the earth' just about summed it up." I think this is the apogee of travel writing. I shall be reading more of his works. The third time I’ve read the book, and I’ve enjoyed it each and every time. Thoreau is seen as caustic by many, but tis those very same attitudes that make the book so interesting. For example, his knock on the Japanese is both contemplative and fully warranted. He does not cover the full range of the Pacific, but does a good job of the islands he does get to. Having worked and/or traveled to three of his destinations, his observations seem justifiable to me....maybe I’m also a caustic old-timer....read in Sri Lanka, finished 27.01.2020. Theroux takes planes, ferries, helicopters, and his kayak around fifty-odd Pacific islands. As usual, he's critical of all he sees, occasionally hypocritical, observant but prone to overgeneralization, often unhappy. But, he experiences a lot, he gets into conversation with a lot of people without taking advantage of them, he's funny. I think what distinguishes this from the previous Theroux I read, "Dark Star Safari," is that Theroux overall very much enjoys his travels through the Pacific, and doesn't want them to end. The final set piece, of a total eclipse in Hawaii, is a little awkward, but still a cute ending. > Paddling along, the sound of the paddle or the slosh of the boat would startle the fish, and they would leap from the water and skim across the waves, shimmying upright, balancing on their tails – more than one, often eight or ten fish dancing across my bow as I paddled towards a happy island. > “If someone, say your mother, gets bad sick, you feed your pig a lot of food. Get him fat.” “Because you might need him for your mother’s funeral?” “Right.” I could just imagine a sick Tongan’s sense of doom when he or she looked out the hut window and saw the family pig fattened. “Also your horse.” “To be in the funeral procession?” “Not the procession but the feast. We eat the horses.” > Even with my stinging arm in this choppy sea, I would rather be here among the cathedral-like contours of the cliffs on this high island than seeing its architectural equivalent in Europe – and I knew that the next time I saw Westminster Abbey or Notre-Dame I would be instantly reminded of the soaring Na Pali coast and miss it terribly. Paul's voyage and writing meandered around the Pacific, not telling much of a story.
A sense of being beyond the reach of civilization comes when, in his intrepid kayak, off Easter Island and between the rock-battering surf and the Pacific, Theroux removes his headphones, ``hears the immense roar of waves and the screaming wind,'' and is terrified. A vast and contemplative book, seeing the ``Pacific as a universe, and the islands like stars in all that space.'' Informative not only for the voyager, but also for those wanting a new perspective on the Western continents of home. (Sorely lacking a map.) The grand tour of Oceania ends with Mr. Theroux describing travel writing as "a horrid preoccupation that I practiced only with my left hand." He then proceeds to make the claim that "I was not sure what I did for a living or who I was, but I was absolutely sure I was not a travel writer." "The Happy Isles of Oceania," with its studiously cynical vision of paradise lost, should make excellent reading for those people who don't want to travel or don't like to travel. It will reassure them that it is best to stay at home and not think too much about how else they might lead their lives. Paul Theroux has long since mastered the craft of writing, but, after finishing this book, I found myself wondering if he will ever master the fine art of travel. One journalist has cast doubt on Theroux’s account of his dinner with Dame Cath because he had neither tape recorder nor notebook at hand. However, speaking as one of his victims, I have news on that score. I ran into Paul Theroux in Port Moresby in 1991 and spent a few hours with him in shops looking at carvings, which I was there researching at the time. We chatted for over an hour, said our good-byes, and I thought no more of it. What an bracing little shock then to find myself in this book. I have a different name and the place of our encounter has been changed, but Theroux has managed to record with uncanny accuracy what I told him. I imagine he holds conversations long enough in his memory to write them down as soon as he is alone. My page in The Happy Isles leaves me both astonished and mildly embarrassed. Did I say that those villagers on one occasion I recounted to him “almost shat in their pants”? Well, uh, I did. People who loose their tongues in the presence of writers have no right to complain.
Account of the travels of an internationally acclaimed, award-winning author among the islands of the Pacific, including New Zealand and Australia. Gives detailed descriptions of the people and places he encountered and his reactions to his new surroundings. Includes maps. The book proved controversial in New Zealand, where some readers reacted against portraits of people Theroux encountered there. His other books include TThe Mosquito Coast' and TRiding the Iron Rooster'. No library descriptions found. |
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![]() GenresMelvil Decimal System (DDC)919.504History and Geography Geography and Travel Geography of and travel in Australasia, Pacific Ocean islands, Atlantic Ocean islands, Arctic islands, Antarctica and on extraterrestrial worlds New Guinea and neighboring countries of MelanesiaLC ClassificationRatingAverage:![]()
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A lengthy, sometimes toilsome, read but ultimately rewarding. (