Jeff Lowenfels

First gripe - it's "Teeming" not "Teaming," guys.
Second gripe - the introduction assures us there is no need to learn college level science, and then proceeds to offer college level science in the first half of the book.
Third gripe - While establishing the principle that soil fertility is based on replacing what you remove, the recommendations for replacement materials relies heavily on vegetative meals (Alfalfa, cottonseed, soybean and corn gluten meal, which would have to come from fields show more being stripped of those nutrients. And other minerals from mining sources. There is very little emphasis on compost - calling it a soil amendment rather than a source of fertility. Chapter 10 seems to be a back-sliding from his first book, which I'm reading now.

That all said, this is exactly the book I would have wanted to see in my Agronomy courses in college. It's a huge step ahead from what we knew 30 years ago. show less

(This review was originally written for The Garden Bloggers' Book club)

After slogging my way through the last book I read, I was disheartened to read in the Preface to Teaming with Microbes: A Gardener's Guide to the Soil Food Web that the first part of the book would be difficult to get through. I pressed on. Very science-y. An excellent sleep inducer. No joke. I did fall asleep while reading it one warm afternoon. But it was definitely worth it. Like the authors, I urge you to read the show more entire book and not just the second part which is the heart of the book.

Their argument boils down to one sentence: "No one ever fertilized an old-growth forest". Think about all the wild places you have ever seen, lush with growth. How did they get that way without the help of Scott's or Miracle-Gro? And if Scott's and Miracle-Gro are so superior, why don't our yards and gardens look better than those wild places?

The authors' thesis is that we should garden like Nature gardens, working with the flora and fauna in the soils rather than against it through the use of compost, organic mulches and actively aerated compost tea. Best of all, they provide precise instructions and call for materials that most of us have on hand anyways. No need for expensive ingredients or equipment!

I was thrilled to discover that I am not a "lazy composter" as I have always thought. Instead, I practice cold composting (not turning the compost), a method that produces the most "nutritious" compost! And what I jokingly refer to as "composting in situ", using the mower to shred up leaves and dumping them with the grass clippings onto my beds in the fall is actually a recommended mulch. As are the leaves I leave in my gardens over the winter. The only thing I am doing wrong is removing the leaves in the spring. And my deepest, darkest secret is nothing to be ashamed of. Instead of carefully working my compost into the soil, I just spread it on top. Again, a recommended method for amending the soil!

Of course, there are things that I have to do differently. Such as leaving the leaves on my beds. And even though I don't roto-till, I should still stop "loosening" the soil in the spring when I plant my seeds. The soil should be disturbed as little as possible. Planting in individual holes or narrow furrows is fine. I should learn to make and use actively aerated compost teas. Perhaps most importantly instead of throwing anything and everything into my composter, I should pay closer attention to the individual ingredients and their proportions, maybe go so far as to have different composters to make compost tailored to the needs of the various plants in my gardens.

This is a wonderful book that I will be referring to again and again. Thanks Carol for recommending it. My garden is forever in your debt. show less

I can see why this book seems revolutionary – “Don’t roto-till?!” It replaces that work with stuff nearly as involved. Inventory your microbes. Send soil away for a microbe analysis. Make compost tea. Seriously, it does offer some new information. Perennials prefer fungal compost, veggies and annuals prefer bacterial (green) compost. There are also two or three main types of mycorrhizal fungi, and they are available to treat seed.
I saw the difference m-treatment of grass seed made show more last year. I’m sold on its efficacy. show less

"A breakthrough book. No comprehensive horticultural library should be without it." -American Gardener

When we use chemical fertilizers, we injure the microbial life that sustains plants, and then become increasingly dependent on an arsenal of toxic substances. Teaming with Microbes offers an alternative to this vicious circle, and details how to garden in a way that strengthens, rather than destroys, the soil food web. You'll discover that healthy soil is teeming with life-not just show more earthworms and insects, but a staggering multitude of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms.

This must-have guide is for everyone, from those devoted to organic gardening techniques to weekend gardeners who simply want to grow healthy plants without resorting to chemicals. show less