(Persephone Classics)

Agnes Jekyll explains in her introduction to Kitchen Essays that these pieces have been published in book form as a result of readers of "The Times" having requested such a ready reference. These traditional recipes and rituals straddle nostalgia and practicality, and make this a charming — and, surprisingly, useful — volume. When I picked it up, I thought that I might leaf through, dawdle over a cup of tea and then settle into some proper reading with another Persephone, but I read more than half of the essays in a single sitting. And I was sure that I would skip over the recipes, but the preparation is very matter-of-fact and could clearly be employed as-is, providing the dish and its ingredients were to the reader’s taste.Okay, fine: my lifestyle doesn’t require that I be acquainted with the chapter entitled “A Dinner Before the Play”. And, it’s true: I simply would never have cause to refer to “A Shooting-Party Luncheon”.But there is one recipe and commentary which I can readily and enthusiastically employ:“Toast, to be good, demands a glowing grate, a handy toasting-fork, and a patient watcher — counsels of perfection indeed, for the ideal rack is like friendship and the immortality of the soul, almost too good to be true.”As a historic document, Kitchen Essays illuminates the tradition of English cookery in straightforward language and a cozy tone. And it reminds readers that the love of preparing and enjoying and sharing food crosses generations and geo-political borders as readily as one passes a plate of hot-buttered toast.More here if you're interested. ( )

Agnes Jekyll explains in her introduction to Kitchen Essays that these pieces have been published in book form as a result of readers of "The Times" having requested such a ready reference. These traditional recipes and rituals straddle nostalgia and practicality, and make this a charming — and, surprisingly, useful — volume.

When I picked it up, I thought that I might leaf through, dawdle over a cup of tea and then settle into some proper reading with another Persephone, but I read more than half of the essays in a single sitting. And I was sure that I would skip over the recipes, but the preparation is very matter-of-fact and could clearly be employed as-is, providing the dish and its ingredients were to the reader’s taste.

Okay, fine: my lifestyle doesn’t require that I be acquainted with the chapter entitled “A Dinner Before the Play”. And, it’s true: I simply would never have cause to refer to “A Shooting-Party Luncheon”.

But there is one recipe and commentary which I can readily and enthusiastically employ:

“Toast, to be good, demands a glowing grate, a handy toasting-fork, and a patient watcher — counsels of perfection indeed, for the ideal rack is like friendship and the immortality of the soul, almost too good to be true.”

As a historic document, Kitchen Essays illuminates the tradition of English cookery in straightforward language and a cozy tone. And it reminds readers that the love of preparing and enjoying and sharing food crosses generations and geo-political borders as readily as one passes a plate of hot-buttered toast.

More here if you're interested. ( )

I received this book through Santathing and am glad that I did. Some of the actual recipes presented in this book of 1920ish essays on food are a little odd for today's tastes (who today would add cream to tinned sardines?) but many look delicious. The main value of the book however is the fascinating slice of social history it gives for middle class life just after the First World War. The book is also strongly humanitarian in its recognition of the realities of life for servants. ( )

The Short of It:

A delightful distraction from the day-to-day.

The Rest of It:

Kitchen Essays is in fact, a collection of recipes, but it’s really quite a bit more than that. It’s a guide…almost a food bible of sorts for the hostess that needs a bit of help planning a menu. In the 1920s, every occasion was a party. Within its pages there are suggestions for a morning of Christmas shopping, dinner before a play, a Winter shooting party luncheon, and the section that got the most laughs out of me, For the Too Thin and For the Too Fat.

At just over 260 pages, I managed to stretch this one out for several months by reading a chapter at bedtime. It was the perfect antidote to a very stressful day. What I found incredibly humorous was the abundant use of butter and cream and the fact that nothing is really measured out. Meaning, that if you wanted to put these dishes together yourself, you’d have to do with a “walnut” piece of butter or a dribble of cream. Oh, and let’s not forget the clever use of aspic!

I think anyone that enjoys food and entertaining will really enjoy this one. ( )