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Heart of the Artichoke and Other Kitchen Journeys (2010)

by David Tanis

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1691148,669 (3.61)None
Recipes from a very small kitchen by a man with a very large talent. Nobody better embodies the present-day mantra "Eat real food in season" than David Tanis, one of the most original voices in American cooking. For more than a quarter-century, Tanis has been the chef at the groundbreaking Chez Panisse, in Berkeley, California, where the menu consists solely of a single perfect meal that changes each evening. Tanis's recipes are down-to-earth yet sophisticated, simple to prepare but impressive on the plate. Tanis opens this soulful, fun-to-read cookbook with his own private food rituals, those treats--jalapeño pancakes, beans on toast, pasta for one--for when you are on your own in the kitchen with no one else to satisfy. Then he follows with twenty incomparable menus (five per season) that serve four to six. Each transports the reader to places far and wide.  And for grand occasions, a time for the whole tribe to gather around the table, Tanis delivers festive menus for holiday feasts. So in one book, three kinds of cooking: small, medium, and large.… (more)
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I think this is the first cookbook I have read straight through cover-to-cover as one would a non-cookbook. In part this is because of Tanis's chatty, personable narration and the way the book is set up by seasons and menus. There is a wholeness to the section that you do not get when a cookbook is divided by types of food. The menus he has created seem absolutely sybaritic, despite the fact that they often contain simple ingredients. Perhaps this is because of the spices he chooses, the emphasis on freshness and his own obvious pleasure in the dishes. Tanis even makes tongue and tripe sound like things I could consider eating. Mind you I said could consider...we'll see.

Of course the real test of a cookbook is in the cooking and I have not yet cooked a recipe from the book. I will first make the Vegetables a la Greque for my cookbook book club this week. Other group member will be making other things so I end up trying 7 of the dishes from the lot. Then, we will use the book for two more meetings. In other words, I am not yet able to appraise the actual recipes and ease of use as I will be, but the book is a pleasure to read. Four stars for readability, perhaps five once I have actually used the recipes.

Now I have had the Spice Pears in Red Wine - Divine. The grilled zucchini with fresh mozzarella - nice fresh dish that could be a side or starter, The Molasses-Pecan Squares- again fab! The Pasta Timballo - excellent. The shrimp stuffed Avocados-Yum! I made the Vegetables a l Greque and they were wonderful. I love this cookbook! ( )
  lucybrown | Apr 13, 2012 |
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Recipes from a very small kitchen by a man with a very large talent. Nobody better embodies the present-day mantra "Eat real food in season" than David Tanis, one of the most original voices in American cooking. For more than a quarter-century, Tanis has been the chef at the groundbreaking Chez Panisse, in Berkeley, California, where the menu consists solely of a single perfect meal that changes each evening. Tanis's recipes are down-to-earth yet sophisticated, simple to prepare but impressive on the plate. Tanis opens this soulful, fun-to-read cookbook with his own private food rituals, those treats--jalapeño pancakes, beans on toast, pasta for one--for when you are on your own in the kitchen with no one else to satisfy. Then he follows with twenty incomparable menus (five per season) that serve four to six. Each transports the reader to places far and wide.  And for grand occasions, a time for the whole tribe to gather around the table, Tanis delivers festive menus for holiday feasts. So in one book, three kinds of cooking: small, medium, and large.

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